On the Mac you don't want to be using /dev/diskn. This can be achieved simply by using your favorite compression tool, such as gzip, 7zip, WinZip, WinRar. Since the image will be of the same size as your SD card, you may want to compress it. You can also install special drivers so your Windows can read ext filesystems (and will thus be able to read the whole SD card), such as ext2fsd but it is probably not worth the effort. If you have SSH enabled, SFTP usually requires no special configuration on the Raspberry Pi side.Īnother option is to copy the files to a remote system using rsync. If you don't want to back up your entire system, but only specific files, I suggest you connect to your Raspberry Pi via SFTP and copy the files to your local computer (You can use the WinScp client). Of course, you can also use RawWrite, dd for Windows or similar tools, the process is quite similar. Just enter the filename (the location and name of the backup image file to be saved), select the device (the SD card) and press read: You can use Win32 Disk Imager, which is the preferred tool for flashing a SD card of the Foundation. On Windows, you can use the reverse process that you used when flashing the SD card. To find out which disk your device is type diskutil list at a command prompt - also, you may need to be root to do this type sudo -s and enter your password when prompted. (using rdisk is preferable as its the raw device - quicker) On Mac, you can also use the standard `dd` tool with a slightly different syntax:ĭd if=/dev/rdiskx of=/path/to/image bs=1m To avoid risk, the if should be un-mounted during dd. This risk is due to the fact that changes made to if may be incomplete when copied by dd. Note: An of image created from a mounted partition on if may be corrupted. On Linux, you can use the standard `dd` tool: Furthermore, Windows cannot recognize typical Linux filesystems, so you probably won't even be able to see your files, when you plug in your SD card.Ĭreating a disk image will preserve not only files but also the filesystem structure and when you decide to flash your new SD card, you will be able to just plug it in and it will work. I have no problems with it.If you want to preserve all of the data, you will probably have to create a disk image. If you can "live with the two limitations" mentioned above, USB3 is a "good enough" choice. I've found that recent versions of SMART Utility seem to be able to communicate with and report well enough. Thus, much higher speeds with negligible CPU loading.Īlso, Weaselboy is correct about not being able to enable TRIM via USB.Īlso, you probably won't be able to run a firmware updater for the drive, if one is released. This is "USB Attached SCSI Protocol" which is based on the old SCSI standard and relieves the computer's CPU from dealing with USB transfers. When you shop for an enclosure, you want one with an "ASMedia" chipset (1053e preferred), and be sure that it states that the enclosure supports "UASP". I've heard of guys attaching these to the back of the iMac stand with velcro tape. (might be available in silver as well, to match the iMac) Not elegant, but it sits out-of-the-way on my desk behind the phone. USB3 is much cheaper, will run just as fast.įor my own setup, I use a "lay-flat" USB3 docking station. Again, if you use USB3, you need to investigate and get the RIGHT enclosure or dock.īe aware that you will pay a premium to use thunderbolt, and most drive enclosures are not going to provide an extra "pass-thru" thunderbolt port, so if you connect a thunderbolt external drive you probably won't be able to use the Tbolt port to connect a second display. Yes, you can boot and run the iMac just fine from either a thunderbolt or USB3 enclosure. I've been booting my 2007 iMac from a USB2 dock for years.įor the past year, I boot and run my late-2012 Mac Mini from a USB3 dock.Īs stated above, the enclosure or dock that one uses "makes the difference". The poster who wrote the above -is- wrong.
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